What is the difference between hard and soft bushings
Compared to a pair of conical-shaped bushings they are less responsive. As mentioned these bushings are mostly used for street and skatepark skateboarding. Cone-shaped bushings are great for turning and carving and typically more suited for longboards and cruisers. Because of their conical shape, they have less polyurethane less mass and resistance they allow for greater deck lean.
The shape has less support in the middle which makes them ideal for carving. The wide end should face upward and the narrow end downward. You can compensate this by picking harder barrel bushings and combine this with a softer cone bushing.
More deck clearance might also help you to prevent wheelbite. If you weigh over lbs go for durometer 93A. A friend of mine who rides them says they seem to snap back in place faster than his last bushings. He likes his upper bushing a little harder than the lower bushings, mainly because he skates transition and likes stiff trucks. Anyway, Bones bushings come in soft, medium and hard. These are the most recommended bushings by street skateboarders. They offer a bit more stability compared to standard bushings but More about the durometer scale and weight in a moment.
Because of their symmetrical shape barrel bushings are the most common bushings used in both regular skateboards and longboards. The polyurethane bushings have the largest pressure surface, density and provide the most stability. Downhill and speed-junkies usually go for this type of bushings as they prevent speed wobbling. Double barrel bushings are more suited for longboards and not regular skateboards. Recommended for downhill speed maniacs and fast longboard freeride.
The stiffness will provide lots of stability keeping you safer at great velocity. Go for the recommended brands mentioned at the single barrel bushings. Not recommended for carving and slalom. Great for downhill riders and longboarders because of their stiffness and ability to compress and release to the center.
Stepped bushings have a high rebound but are a bit stiffer in general which makes them less responsive. Some have more of a curved shape and others have a more straight or a slight angle. Because of their shape, stepped bushings could be considered a combination of barrel and truck bushings. They are suitable for longboards and cruisers, but not designed for a regular skateboard.
Go for double-stepped bushings if you want your trucks really tight. Because of their shape, they create a lot of lean resistance even if you have softer bushings. They have a larger surface like the barrel shapes but with an added indent on top. Stepped bushings are also referred to as stepped barrels because of the similar shape. Besides tightness and stiffness, they also provide lots of rebound, meaning they snap back to the center quickly.
Only suitable for longboarders that like speed and faster rides! This combination would be a nightmare on a regular skateboard. Combining a barrel on top with a stepped bushing on the bottom creates a lot of stability in the trucks.
This is a good choice for downhill longboarding, where stability is more important than making sharp turns. The stepped bushing provides stiffness and lean resistance allowing for a stable ride. This combination of bushing shapes on the top and bottom will give you lots of rebound. Again, make sure to get cup washers to get even more stability. Cone-shaped bushings but the smaller surfaces are placed on top of each other.
This makes a longboard very responsive and allows for a great carving and turning experience. Less suitable for downhill as the high velocities will cause the trucks to wobble. The larger surface area on top offers more resistance compared to barrel bushings and causes less shape distortion. The bottom is the opposite when leaning and they offer great rebound. Add some cup washers if you want more stability.
The type of bushings you need depends on your weight. Your weight compresses the bushings when you turn and picking bushings that are too soft impacts balance. I noticed this when I picked up skateboarding again and gained some weight.
It felt like my bushings were too loose. If felt my skateboard slipping away under my feet, especially my back truck was all over the place in the mini ramp. After getting some harder bushings I finally got the stability back and could skate more confident.
Heavier skaters should pick harder bushings but it also depends on your personal preference and style. The heavier you weight the harder your bushings should be in general. However, if you like to have your trucks tights you can go with softer bushings. Riding tight trucks compresses the bushing making them less responsive and harder as they are squished together.
This is a general indication and only meant for regular skateboards. Like wheels, bushings are measured by durometer. Durometer A is limited in scale, by using scale B manufacturers can produce harder wheels while the scale still makes sense. Just keep in mind that Durometer A-scale is 20 points above durometer B-scale. Brand divide the hardness into 3 categories; soft, medium, and hard. In between the categories, the hardness varies.
Soft bushings have a durometer below 90A or 70B. These turn the best and compress the easiest. They are suitable for lightweight skateboarders and people who prefer loose trucks. These are not suitable for speed maniacs as they become unstable causing your trucks to wobble.
For example, an 80b durometer is the same hardness as a a durometer. These skateboard truck bushings have a wider and more accurate hardness range. Softer bushings are easier for your hanger to compress, and therefore it is easier to turn on softer bushings. Harder bushings result in stiffer turns. Importantly, how tight or loose you keep your bushings also effects your skateboard's turn responsiveness. Some skateboarders choose different durometers for the top and bottom bushings.
In addition to durometer, the shape of your skateboard bushings is also a big factor. In recent years, skateboarders have been experimenting with different bushing shapes to accentuate their rides. Some bushings are symmetrical between the top and bottom, but in some sets the top and bottom bushing are shaped differently.
The three basic shapes of skateboard bushings are conical, barrel, and eliminator. How these shapes are mixed and matched within a set leads to a handful of common bushing styles. Here is a detailed breakdown of the basic bushing styles on the market today:.
Bushing washers are round metal washers that fit under skateboard bushings on each truck, and are installed by simply sliding them on the kingpin. The purpose of bushing washers is to prevent the bushings from getting deformed by the pressure exerted on the trucks. A total of four bushing washers will be included when you purchase skateboard trucks.
In most sets, the washers will be all the same size, though some manufacturers will include two smaller washers for the top bushing and two larger washers for the bottom bushing.
So, from top to bottom around your kingpin, the setup should be as follows: bottom washer, bottom bushing, bushing seat, top bushing, top washer, lock nut. Bushing washers can be flat or slightly cupped at the edges. Flat washers allow the bushings more lateral slide, and allow them to stretch a bit more. Cupped washers restrict bushing movement, which further prevents the bushings from deforming or blowing out completely.
In other words, flat washers provide low resistance, and cupped washers provide higher resistance. The shape of bushing washer you choose should match up with the shape of bushing you're using in order to function properly.
Independent Trucks - Conical Truck Bushings 94a. Independent bushings - Soft 88a. Independent bushings - Medium Independent bushings - Hard Independent Trucks - Truck Bushings 78a. Independent Trucks - Conical Truck Bushings 92a. Independent Pivot Cups Black. Independent Standard Cylinder Medium 90a Bushings. Independent Standard Conical Hard 94a Bushings. Independent Standard Conical Medium 90a Bushings.
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