How many carrots per seed
Poor Dee and her 20 beets If you have space, you don't have to think your one planting of beets or carrots is all you get - you can keep planting them all season.
If you have clay soil, it's likely that you have low availability of phosphorus, really important for root crops. So add rock phosphate or bone meal if you're organic or triple phosphate.
However to obtain a bunch you need to plant the seeds with enough spacing or they will crowd each other out and not grow well. Possible you heard something about beets.
Beet seeds are multi-gems and can actually give more then one plant. Carrots are single-gem seeds. Putting home on the market soon, question on appliances.
Postcards please from the Edge of the temporary kitchen. POLL: How often do you cook at home? Kitchen remodel from dark to light. A few years ago I planted beets for the first time.
I really still don't have much experience with vegetables anyway, and two years ago even less. Anyway, I planted 20 seeds, thinking 20 beet "plants" would give me beets all season! As the seeds germinated and sprouted, I did more research, and then I realized that one seed yields one beet. Boy did I feel dumb! I think those were the most savored veggies I ever grew, lol, because we knew that there was a very limited amount! Doris carrots at least for me are NOT easy to grow properly in ground unless you have really good soil with little or no clay.
Just to avoid disappointment why not grow some in a container with good potting mix. What other veggies are you growing. Im hoping for some peppers, kohlrabi's squashes melons. Definitely some garlic and onions, I know my bunny friends wont eat them. Rich, a question on carrots in containers - what size pot do you use or recommend, and how many carrots per that pot? Also, can carrot seedlings be easily transplanted, or would you suggest starting them in the pot they will live in? When sowing you can over sow to ensure good germination then cut back to allow about two or three inches in between carrots.
You will get mixed messages on transplanting, some have no problems but others will tell you they grow deformed, I start them in the container I don't transplant. You said your growing peppers this year, I always have trouble with the sweet variety when grown in the ground, so last year I did several in containers and had great success so this year I plan to do alot in containers, try one or two in a container.
I had never been able to grow good carrots in the ground, so last year I drilled holes in the bottom of a 5 gal. When I had to thin the seedlings, I added the cut greens to salads. I got such nice carrots that this year I'm planning to sow several buckets of carrots.
I may also try to plant successive crops and add some worm castings to the mix. One of the nice things about growing veggies in containers is that you can move them around, even though a 5 gal. Even though I mixed in lots of compost, my carrots didn't do too well.
They were very short, about " long. I've asked the same question. Yes, one seed one carrot which sucks that's why I don't plant carrots anymore.
Water the area with the gentlest stream possible, and keep it constantly moist until the seeds sprout. Growing Ideal pH: 6. The softer and more humus-based the soil, the better. When soil is dry enough in spring, work it to a fine texture. Avoid fresh manure. Carrots will become misshapen, but still edible if they hit anything hard as they grow down into the soil. Keep weeded and watered.
Thinning This is the process of removing some seedlings, if necessary, so each has enough space to grow in the row.
Use wider spacing to get larger roots. As they grow, carrots may push up, out of the soil, so hill soil up to prevent getting a green shoulder. Harvest Carrots can be harvested at any size, but flavour is best when the carrot has turned bright orange - or its other mature colour. Store in sand or sawdust, or simply leave carrots under heaped soil in the garden during the winter, and pull as needed.
Usual seed life: 3 years. Rates are for raw, not pelleted seeds. The larva of the fly chews tunnels and unsightly grooves through the surface of the root, causing rot. Use our floating row cover to keep the adults away from the carrots. Plant after the beginning of June to avoid the first and worst infestation period.
The good news for apartment dwellers who want to grow carrots on their balconies is the Carrot Rust Fly is not a good flyer. It is unlikely to infest their high-rise crop. Wireworm — These are the larva of click beetles. They are about an inch and a half long, slender and reddish brown. When squeezed they turn as rigid as a wire, hence the name. If too many of your seeds sprout, you can thin them out. Use scissors to clip the extras. Another option is to let them continue growing and only start to thin them once they start to produce carrots.
Then you can pull up the smaller carrots and actually enjoy a bit of fresh carrot rather than let them go to waste. Once you manage to get your carrot seeds to sprout, most of the hard work is done.
You should take care to water very regularly and not let them dry out completely. Irregular watering can lead to uneven growth and strangely shaped carrots. Keep your carrot patch weed-free, especially during the first several weeks of growth. Be careful not to disturb the new plants when you pull the weeds.
Carrots are great for container gardening, particularly if you plant varieties that produce short carrots. Royal Chantenay carrots are about 5 inches long at maturity, but produce very fat carrots. Little Fingers or Mignon are even shorter around 3 inches , with more typical slender roots.
Any of these will work fine in containers. Fill your container with very loose soil or even just potting mix. Seeds just as you would in the garden. Since containers are usually pretty weed-free, it can actually be easier to grow carrots this way. For nice straight carrots, you need to get the soil well-dug and stone free. Knobby carrots can also form if you water irregularly.
For insect pests, you need to watch out for the Carrot Rust Fly. They lay their eggs on the tops of the carrots, and their larvae dig in and chew on the carrot root.
If they are common in your area, try to plant your carrots later in the season to avoid the worst infestations. To protect your plants, you can buy yellow sticky traps that can help keep the adult flies off your carrots. Click beetle larvae are called wireworms, and can also make a meal of your growing carrots. They prefer moist soil, so keeping your carrot bed well-drained and not over-watered can help.
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